It was colder than I was expecting. I had gloves on from the off.
Half a plan in mind, half a mind to just have a wander.
It was eerie past the tree line. The sun was trapped in a bank of murk so there were no shadows and there was no wind either. Still and dark. And cold, my hood was up now.
The dead pines are straight off of a Tim Burton storyboard. If only my raven was here.
I really don’t like my camera much. When my old LX5 died, I got the update, the LX7, and it’s just not as good.
I don’t what the hell I’m doing with cameras so I rely on picking preprogrammed modes to suit the moment or mood and the LX7 doesn’t have the ones I used to use.
I’ve kinda had to come to terms with the rather lame fact that this took some of the fun away from my hill time as I loved fannying around at night with a ten second timer and a headtorch. Or two.
I tried a few nighttime photies tonight, it really was fun, but the camera was saying no more often than not.
I don’t care how much technology has moved on and how lo-fi the results will be, I’m tracking some LX5s on ebay. It’s all about the joy.
Two jackets, aye it was that cold. It’s not a hiviz vest though, it’s Haglofs picking their pallete at the office party/in the dark.
It’s surprising how much light reflects off that jacket from a headtorch, I glow as I walk. Readybrek? God, I’m old…
The cup marked stone is easy to find in the dark if you know where it is.
Did I really just write that?
I looks like an alien skull emerging from centuries of entombment. A clawed hand will soon follow to clutch at then posses/consume a hapless rambler as part of its plan to take over the world in a low budget British indie movie fashion.
Could have stayed out all night. This was proper fun.
It’s been a grey year so far, the patches of blue have proved elusive. Seen some in the distance, just haven’t managed to stand in one.
The plan was a pleasant wander from Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy on the Way with a train back to the start.
I knew the trains were on a limited service, it was just the 2nd so not complaining, but I didn’t know the hotel was shut for winter until someone told us when Beinn Dorain was the biggest thing in the forward view.
It was cold, even my insulated gloves couldn’t keep the nip from my fingertips as the on-the-flat walk kept my heart rate low and temperature down.
I felt on the brink of being chilled, the path was iced and the ground never thawed with the single patch of sunlight sitting far ahead on the Black Mount, mocking my thoughts of a clear winter’s day to start the year.
The thought of freezing our arses off in Bridge of Orchy for a couple of hours was very much on my mind as the train wasn’t until seven.
Down jackets on, stove lit, snacks broken out. It was still grey, it was still cold, but it’s amazing how warm you become from laughter and cuppas.
There were plenty of friendly faces on the way.
We walked with our down still on, but now with headtorches in easy reach in a pocket.
The traffic blinked and sparkled silently in the dark on the A82 as the hills softened and blended into the indigo sky.
The station was a little island, a warm golden glow in the darkness but without any accompanying heat. We had an hour, moving is warmer, we passed by and went down to the bridge.
A fire burned on the other side with vans, cars and voices. An hour ago, I would have ran to stand by the fire, now though I was quite warm and content and we walked on through the dark and ambled back to the station.
The platform was bright, silent and deserted. Trees loomed tall, jagged and Tim Burtonesque in the gloom while many coloured alien eyes shone unblinking down the tracks, watching our every move, waiting for the perfect moment to make their move towards us.
If I had an imagination I might have felt uneasy.
The train was on time, it was busy and warm inside. I could feel the carriage lean through the curves at the Auch horseshoe, ah the views we could have had.
Tyndum Upper was even creepier than where we’d left, how’d they manage that?
The Real Food Cafe wasn’t far though, and oh that haggis in batter.
It was a day to stay in, glad we went out.
I know these kinds of themed days are supposed to highlight plights as well as revel in the sights, but I have enough grief in my life without getting involved in any other fights.
That’s just today though, tomorrow I might come at you like white whiskered hungry bear who thinks you look like a cheeseburger if you piss around with my hills.
Right, a brief shrapnel of photies from years of endless joy to celebrate this day.
I love you mountains, I’m coming soon.
Had a fine day last Saturday. We had a fruit tree planting day at the the Lang Craigs in a handy wee space just up a bit from Overtoun House and despite the manky weather it was well attended.
We had a lot of families so quite a few wee yins in wellies and woolly hats digging in the mud and having fun before it was time for a quick wander round the trees to talk about winter identification (its bark and buds, that’s how you tell).
Then it was back to the big hoose for soup and cuppas in a room I’d never been in, all dark paneling and roaring log fire.
I did notice this barbed wire right on the path about to shred someone’s rucksack. Is this allowed? I think not, this disagreeable neighbour’s pushing his luck here I think.
That all done, everyone went their own way except me, Jo and Franki my fellow rangers and two poor wee buggers from BB’s on a mission for achievements in their book of activity type thing (I should really have asked what the proper description of it was).
So, a quest of fence maintenance it was. I also had to fit some signs on the top gates so it seemed a good fit to give the boys a real task rather than some random box ticking exercise that I imagine happens a lot with this stuff.
It was however cold, a bit rainy, windy and late in the day. We also had a good bit of ascent to do so had to keep moving to get stuff done.
Franki lost my screwdriver at the first sign fitting. I am psychologically scarred for life knowing that a lifelong companion is lying lonely on the hillside somewhere. Rusting slowly…
We cleared a water gate, a swinging doodah above running water that lets swollen burns and debris through, but keeps deer out. There were three big boulders jammed under it, it’s amazing how easily an unassuming little watercourse can move rocks you would struggle to roll never mind lift.
We climbed up to 1000ft dealing with fence issues on the way and fitted another couple of signs with cold fingers on spare screwdrivers before I called it: time to go down. I saw tired faces, darkening skies and we were all getting hungry.
Although not far away, the easy track were were picking up at Black Wood was beyond a nightmare crossing of moorland covered with water filled potholes, the legacy of prepping for tree planting. I’m used to it, I mostly skip from mound to mound, but every time I turned round I saw someone disappear into knee deep cold water and mud. Ha.
The track was descended in darkness, but the banter was in full flow, the team was happy. The youngsters did really well, it was a big day in very poor hill conditions and they did the tasks themselves.
I suspect there were some early nights had by team members.
Nice to be up there team handed, I usually feel like the upper contours only ever see me or the poachers. Lang Craigs, just magic.
A wee family trip as far as the first lock was our Sunday adventure. We put four packs of Mrs Unis’s pakora in the oven when we left the basin and by the time we got to the end of the line they were almost ready.
The sun was setting and the temperature was dropping but we were roasting inside with a well stoked log fire. The dim light and the wood paneling added to the coziness and it was sleepy eyes that cast off for the meander back to the basin.
Of course it being Scottish Canals who do absolutely no maintenance on anything on the Forth and Clyde Canal, given that that think they run a property letting agency with an inconvenient waterway running through it so they have sat on their hands so long the canal is now closed to coast to coast navigation, the prop got choked with uncut weed and we had to pull the Wee Spark into its berth with ropes in the dark.
Still, it was a fun end to the day for the three generations of Macfarlanes. The best of times and just on our doorstep too.
Heading for the hills is something people say when they’re referencing an avoidance technique. I guess then me and the girl were playing hide and seek.
The Lost Valley was always going to be our first stop on the way up. The truck got spotted in the car park by a buddy passing through Glen Coe.
My first thought was that I’ll never be a secret agent driving something so identifiable. But then, James Bond wasn’t running around in Vauxhall* Cavalier was he.
*Spellcheck just wanted me to change that to Valhalla. What the hell man.
It was spitting a bit but still really busy. The car parks were mobbed and the hills full of the colour spots of jackets going up, down and along.
It’s a nice wee wander up, haven’t been for a while. Don’t remember the rope banister up the rocks on the south side of the bridge, it was deep snow last time so maybe I missed it.
I also forgot how close the path is to the gorge, in fact there is no distance at all between the two in places. Holly did well but I was a little rattled at times watching her.
We got into the tumble of rocks and trees and stopped for a drink and a snack. It was humid and grey and felt like it was getting duller all the time.
Our hearts weren’t in it, dinner seemed like a better option. So after some fanning about we headed back down, home was just up the road a wee bit.
Tourist trap and calendar cliche it may be, but this was my first Munro and this place really is just awesome.
Invercoe was quiet and Holly loved the hobbit hut. Clean and basic, it’s good fun and had everything we needed. She did roll off the bunk in the night, but she does that, so it’s fine.
The nights’ expedition was a headtorch walk to the Ballachulish Coop for pastries. This place really is a life saver for trips up here. We saw a bat on the ground by the path. I told Holly it had been stunned in a life or death fight with an extra large moth and was now resting.
Breakfast was in the cafe and the bad news over the patchy wifi was that the Gondola at Nevis Range was off due to high winds with an update at 1200.
We headed up anyway, got to be optimistic.
Optimism doesn’t drop wind speed and we were in Ft Bill when the gondola shut for the day. Treasures of the Earth maybe? We swung left. It might be windy but it was gorgeous, the cloud was broken and was too bright a day for a museum. We’ll keep going.
Ended up at Glenfinnan and did the whole tourist bit, exhibition, monument and cafe. Yes, we bought wooden swords. We still fight with them nightly, the furniture isn’t happy.
There can be only one?
Further on was the only way to go. The road to Mallaig is fast and easy now but takes you past all the good stuff. Not today.
My first trips up here were on the old road through Arisaig and Morar and seeing them again now the bypass was vital now that all the freight is off the rails and on the road. Has made the villages a little desolate feeling though. Doesn’t help being out of season I suppose.
The beaches are beautiful and we stopped at more than one. There were plenty of art materials for mermaid sculptures which the tide crept towards constantly, but it totally wasn’t a race to see who finished first.
It was me.
So many shells and the sea crushes them into the cracks in the rock all along the beach.
Miles from worries and hassle with blue skies, snacks and laughter. I think part me is still there.
How long did that take to wear away and how much longer will it last?
Mallaig has mixed memories for me, fun times heading for the ferry and also being chased by the locals for having long hair. Today it was kinda quaint, a sleepy fishing village where there’s a gap between the shops shutting and the chippy opening.
It gave us extra time to explore and watch the sky. It was cooking something up, a sundog shimmered briefly as the sun sank towards the Sound of Rum.
It was cold, we wrapped up and ate our (very tasty) chippy on the rocks as we watched the day slip away.
I dropped the tailgate to make a table and got the stove on, we had hot cuppas in our hands as the sky burst into flame.
I don’t know if anything can every really be perfect, but there are moments, or even days that are just right and maybe that’s as close to perfect as you need.
Every day we spend doing this stuff I will treasure. High school isn’t so far away now and I feel time is passing ever quicker.
For now though I have a best pal who laughs with me as much as at me and wants to do the same daft stuff as I do and in that ridiculous old truck too.
Ach, maybe can things can sometimes be perfect.
With clocks and the seasons changing night time is right there when you least expect it.
Nice to be back in the Kilpatricks by headtorch and it’s the first time in months there’s no one else there.
I wonder if someone down there in Dumbarton is looking up thinking “I’m sure I saw a light up there…”.
Still this photie.
We were going to meet in the middle, the middle of a sort anyway, Loch Tay is sort of the middle, a middle which is probably anything south of the Great Glen.
A quick run up to the ridge, a camp by that big lochan and a jog back down and back to reality before we were missed.
However I was missed before I even headed north and had to visit some broken museum heating. I was already packed, I was ready, prepaired and repaired (old Laser Comp had been sewn) and oh my god, it was still late when I left.
Gus was in the same boat, that is a rudderless boat full of gear and running late. I got to the NTS car park on the road over the pass to Glen Lyon first.
The cloud was broken but moving pretty fast and it was cold when I opened and then quickly shut the door. Nice bit of snow, nice to actually see it face to face after a weekend of seeing it all on facebook.
“I have arrived” read my message. After a wee gap, he was driving after all, a lovely picture of a unicorn and a rainbow came through from Gus.
I appreciated this effort and mulled over it’s meaning before another attempt came through pretty quickly, “Grandtully!” this read. Not too far away then, back to worrying about the implications of the unicorn while I waited.
Soon enough there was banter and prepping in the car park, we were losing the light, but what the hell.
We wandered up the road, the sun already behind the ridges tumbling south from the Tarmachan Ridge. Showers roaming around but stayed away from us until we were higher and in the darkness.
Showers are just minging inconveniences at sea level, with a bit of height it’s like watching a dancer swish across the landscape, the layered skirts of rain or snow flowing softly across the hillsides. When the dancer turns your way though the spell breaks and it’s hoods up, get a move on. And we did.
Met some familiar faces on the way up, the NTS Path Repair Team. I’d interviewed the team back in July for the current members magazine and having a catch up was perfect for a companion piece that I’ll do on here.
Last time was on one of the hottest days of the year, now they’re in snow and rain with mud up to their necks. Heroes.
Meall nan Tarmachan gets pretty steep towards the top and we got wind driven snow, or it was more like micro hailstones I should say, to sting the cheeks and confuse the mind.
We’d rushed a bit and I was tired anyway, plus hungry and when we got to the ridge I confidently matched off towards the crags over the reservoir with Gus rightly saying “Er, no…”.
Turning round took us in the right direction. Jagged edged white shapes flashing in and out of sight as we trudged on through the dark. It felt further than the map suggested, that’s the hunger factor at work.
Been a wee while since I was in this situation, at 1000m at night in winter conditions looking for somewhere to sleep. It felt right, it felt good, it felt normal.
It helped that I was very comfy and warm. I was just right, even though I had a bunch of new kit on. I hadn’t sweated myself into a state or blistered into a stumble.
The ground slipped away to the north, this looked like it, the big lochan was down there, not too far. We found it, it was the big flat part with snow on it. Hmm, looks frozen.
Hmm, that’s very frozen.
“How much water you got?”
Er, a litre I think?
“Make it last…”
I could pitch this old tent blindfolded and home was soon ready for residence with mat fattened and bags quietly lofting.
We made a cooking shelf on the bank behind us and the sound of gas burners cut through the unexpected silence as dinner bubbled ever closer.
Boiled in the bag chicken tikka, McK oatcakes and a wee Cabernet Sauvignon as the clouds cleared and stars twinkled above us ever so briefly.
This, I like this.
There was no night time ridge exploring, the lochan was circumnavigated to an extent, just enough to discover we’d found the best spot.
It got colder, the weather closed in and the only option was bed.
I was warm, in my old winter set up of PHD combi and liner, I was warm. I watched the frost grow up the inside of the tent as I kicked my socks off inside the bag.
In the early hours I actually woke up and had to pull down the liner bag as the temperature shot up, I lay there breathing in the cool air as the wind picked up and the tent started to shake. The spattering sound of frozen precipitation cut through the music in my earbuds. The temperature dropped again, I cooried in to my fat down layers as the red LED light showed the tent moving above me.
This old red flysheet had seen far worse than this, I didn’t give it a thought. Torch back off, I shut my eyes and nudged the volume up a little.
It was bright, not sunshine bright, diffused bright. It was half 7 or so, no way we were getting anything dramatic to look at over that ridge which was confirmed with a peer under the flysheet. A couple of inches of fresh snow had fallen and we were still in the clouds that had brought it.
Muffled coughing confirmed Gus was up too. Breakfast was now a priority, porridge and coffee. I had some water left and plenty fresh snow around to waste gas melting in the pot. The day was saved.
It was cold, but we were fine. A hot breakfast at camp is vital for me, it’s psychological as well as physical, I feel ready, even if that fades during the first steps of ascent after breaking camp, at least I started fresh.
We stayed for a while, one more cuppa is always welcome. Our patience was repaid with a few patches of blue sky and ever so brief views across to Meall Ghaordaidh and Glen Lyon. Never had views on the Tarmachan Ridge, this is the closest I’ve got I think. Ah well.
The creatures whose eyes we saw shining back at us and whose cries we heard in the night left its mark on the lochan’s fresh snow, not on us I’m glad to report.
We packed, wrapped up and headed for Meall Garbh. It was windy with a bit of snow carried in the gusts, fresh I would say.
That was as far as we went as we suspected would be the case. It looked awesome that narrow stretch heading west from the top, but not in big packs with a dump of fresh powder on it.
Back we went but this time we could at least see more than out pools of light. It’s proper winter and I wasn’t expecting that. Just awesome.
Under the cloud we saw colours again and the world was still there, just like we’d left it, maybe just with a lower snow line since the day before.
We met the paths team again, getting ready for lunch hiding in the helicopter rubble sacks for shelter. Really.
The plan was to grab some water at the burn and cook something hot at the car park, but it started raining and that idea soon washed away.
Dry t-shirts and socks and we were Killin bound.
Reading menus and peering through windows brought no transpiration until we got to the Falls of Dochart Inn over the bridge where a log fire and Halloweeen pumpkins had us pulling back chairs without hesitation.
The haggis was a joy as my cheeks burned and my suddenly gritty eyes looked ahead at the drive home.
A little bit #microadventure, a little bit hanging out with a china, all of it joy. New gear too, get around to that soon.
I wonder how much of our time spent pursuing a passion is trying to find that feeling we had the first time we did it, saw it, felt it… ate it?
Familiarity has never taken the wow moments away from anything I love, the grin is always as wide when I hit that first chord, the giggling at the colours when the sun sets is just as giddy.
But it can never be the first time again, can it?
Maybe it’s a product of age, but I get flashbacks of a sort, moments of time travel where then and now meet and I swear I can feel “it”, whatever that may be.
This photie gives me “it”. I took it on Tuesday morning. The ridge had been hidden by darkness or cloud until the descent and now I couldn’t take my eyes off it on the way down. The nights’ fresh snow had given it a texture and a glow that went beyond pretty. I was partly, I dunno, 20 or 30 years ago, swinging Grivel climbing axes with enthusiastic incompetence with heels shredded in rigid boots as well as 21st Century Schizoid Man needing a hot lunch.
They say smells have the strongest memory triggers. Nah, these folk have never spent a lifetime in the mountains.
The joy and the melancholy mixed together in that moment was a strong brew indeed.
If I keep getting those moments, I am alive, obviously, but I’m still me too. As strange as that might sound, it’s good to know.
A wee spin out for lunch turned into a longer galavant. It’s often the way of it.
The big surprise was Kilchurn Castle being unlocked and accessible which I hadn’t been for years when we’d been here. There’s some closed areas, some fenced off bits and works are a little half heartedly underway. It’s a great place, I hope they fix it rather than forget it because it just exists and does not pay for itself.
Not far away is Strone Hill, a compact and very pretty forest walk. Two loops with benches by a burn, a waterfall and ancient spirits manifesting through the moss.
We’re suckers for these things, park, run, whoop and make up a story on the way back to the truck.
The most “Scottish” thing about this trip was this coo. Well, not so much the coo itself, but the story woven around it.
The big beastie is sitting on the path the Kilchurn Castle, it’s obviously where it hangs out when it’s not walking around slowly looking vacant.
However, after stepping over its tail, we were greeted by this first sign.
Then this one, because you totally took the first one on board.
Then there’s this one so they can find you and kill you for taking photies of the coo and not paying.
And then for bonus fun there’s the barbed wire protecting the photography business’s garden shed.
This whole thing is annoying and kinda distasteful. Normally I can just think “Fannies…” and wander on, but this all grated on me a bit.
Welcome to Scotland.
We love alpacas and llamas. who knew that we could add vicunas to that wee list? It was one the surprises on our trip to the Highland Wildlife Park.
With broken truck suspension courtesy of the A82 and the lure of Ben Cruachan, we left for the A9 in Granny’s wee VW. I will say it has a better stereo, but that’s as far as I’ll go.
We got to Kingussie early but the park was already busy, we were straight into the overflow car park. Scotland used to shut in the autumn, these signs of life were unexpected. I soon learned it was polar cub related, but whatever the novelty, it’s nice to see stuff open and being visited.
We needed food more than anything else and the track from where we parked the motor went straight past the monkeys to the in-house cafe. This was disappointing though, it’s a – remove from the packet, heat and serve – affair. Friendly enough but just, well, rubbish.
If we’d walked just a little further we’d have seen the snack van with home made stovies in the main car park and went there instead.
Still, we were at the park long enough to need refueled and went to the van later and had chips at a picnic bench in the passing swish of sunshine. But there was a lot of other stuff before that…
When the tigers run you can feel the vibrations through the ground, but the paw prints smeared down the glass kinda confirmed that this isn’t a static exhibit, for all their vulnerability in the wider view, these beautiful creatures are missiles of muscle and teeth wrapped in a fur coat.
It’s quite a place this, on the fringes of the Cairngorms on a hillside which has views to inspire and crags within it big enough for the snow leopards to climb, play and hide if they want to.
Here’s a thing, you might not see what you came for, the animals aren’t poked and prodded into view, my lack of good photies of the inhabitants is evidence of that.
We were lucky and had feeding time at the Snow Leopard, but it was made into a problem solving exercise rather than just throwing them a bone. Fast and smooth, they leapt from ground the treetop and away again before I could point and click as I was still oohing and aahing.
Those big tails too. Beautiful.
The big draw is the polar bear cub. The birth was a special event, it doesn’t happen too much and any doubts I had that it was going to be a circus style sideshow slipped away when we saw the mum and cub at play in the water. Magical, mesmerising and muddy. You can’t fake fun like that.
The video shows an unannounced snack break and those voices aren’t ours.
I wonder what the future holds for these wonderful cuddly monsters.
Concentrate, you’re in the bear’s den… Close your eyes, hear the bear, feel the bear, be the bear….
The the residents all seem suited to the terrain and climate here, I suppose the clue is in the name of the place. I wonder how the horrific summer was for them, I wonder how the winter before it was? Got to come back in winter.
We love wolves and Holly’s never seen one. She was so excited going into the forest and when she got to see them it was kind of an emotional moment for both of us.
It’s fairy tales come to life, it’s a legend walking into reality on four carefully placed and silent paws.
The pups played, hiding the bones the grown ups were chewing when they got the chance to steal them. They were calm and lazy in the autumn sunshine, but those skinny bodies with the plush looking fur have weightlifter shoulders and necks with a face full of long sharp teeth. But here’s the thing, the eyes of a poet and dreamer too?
They have a wood to hide in so you might not see them. the viewing platform is raised out of their eyeline which is clever, they can be close to you but you’re not intruding too much.
I think it’s all about balance. My memories of animals and zoos from the 70’s is the cliche of them being knee deep in their own shite in a tiny enclosure. We are a world away from that now and I hope we never go too far and give into those who would ban animal captivity altogether.
As much as all these wonderful beast should be free, if we are to connect to them as living beings rather than seeing just a cute face attached to a television appeal I think we have to really see them, be near them, we have to know that they are real, living beings that we have to help and protect.
Me and Holly were inspired by being so close, it reaches right into the heart and soul. I really think that contact makes the difference between disposable pity and enduring empathy when you see another telly story about shrinking ice caps or bulldozed habitat.
We were the last round the safari drive part. We had to run to catch it before they shut the gate. the ranger was never far away, I think those brushes were to shoo us if we got too slow.
All day we spent here, so many wonderful burds and beasts. Loved it.
Yes, of course we went to the gift shop. Have you seen our plush polar bear cub?
It would have been rude not to visit Ruthven Barracks on the way back. Holly had never been and it’s been years since I’d last been.
So exposed here and still in such good nick.
We ran around reenacting an instantly made up story. The poor sod below had no idea he’d been cast as a plague victim and was about to be crushed by a loose stone from the parapet above. Well, if we’d have got up there in time.
Freezing though, winter is coming in 5… 4… 3…
The weather was a bit crap on Sunday morning and we were lounging around with snacks and Steven Universe reruns.
“Want to go out?” I asked halfheartedly.
Nah, I’m good.
However, the window seemed to be getting brighter. Hmm, look… ?
I pulled up the map on my phone. Where could we go wasn’t the question, where haven’t we been was the tricky thing. Every quickly accessible track and trail has been well worn by us in recent times.
“Here, what about the RSPB thing at Gartocharn, burds an’ that? We’ve actually never been.”
A flurry of thrown pyjamas, a filling of water bottles and we were on the road.
In my mind I’d assumed their car park was a muddy layby that the truck would get stuck in, but to our surprise there’s a nice car park not too far from the main road with a wooden ranger station and a pop up marquee complete with a ranger and a volunteer ready to greet us.
We stopped for banter and information. Holly signed up once again having lapsed for a year and immediately found herself with arms full of RSPB stuff, which I later discovered is all really rather useful and interesting.
Armed with a leaf checklist and a big marker, we headed onto the first trail, detouring into the den building area first of course. This was a theme through the site, get involved, reach out and touch, leave the path, all messages that visitors might find unusual and it shows how things are changing for the better, “Keep off the Grass” is definitely a thing of the past.
The little trail reaches a lookout point that’s in the photie right at the top, a plywood hut that frames the view, will no doubt shelter a pensioner or two and provide kids with hide and seek opportunities.
The view is outstanding of course looking north to the Loch, Conic Hill, Ben Lomond and beyond, But it’s all a little far away. Some folks will love that, it just makes me want to get closer, and you can do that if you want to. The RSPB site extends right down to the lochside and it’s just asking to be explored.
We weren’t kitted out for that and it was getting late, the ranger station was locked by the time we got back, but we’ll be back sooner rather than later.
There’s some dry stone stumps here and there and some beautifully carved benches as well as some hidden sculptures in the woods, just keep your eyes open.
The signage is home made feeling, very unpretentious which I like. Everything feels new and shiny, the structures and the path, but it’s not obtrusive and it’ll weather quickly here.
The little pond had Holly whooping with joy as she ran out on the boardwalk. You can kneel and pond dip with bug identifiers posted nearby and there’s open edges by the water, they’re relying on people to get it right. I absolutely love that attitude.
We sat in the little shelter and had lunch. We did indeed see some of the creatures on the guide, in fact that really is another theme here. The place is bursting with life.
Birds swoop down to a feeder by the hut, all colours and shapes, songs in every key. You really could just sit here and spend your time just sitting.
It was getting grey again and was that a few spots of rain? But we headed into the open country to see what was doing and within a couple of minutes you’ve left the path and huts behind and your in the wilds. All it really takes is a step or two off the surfaced path, do it people, you’ll love it.
A little group of trees had the wackiest fungal infection I’ve seen with this clump home to some spiders. Just so sci-fi.
The ground dweller below was colourful but likely deadly? I might be a Woodland Trust ranger, but I do the fence, don’t ask me about the greenery.
This longer loop through the woods and past the pond is excellent, accessible and atmospheric, it subtlety feeds you the feeling of the wilds and lets you escape to them if you just step off that path.
We loved it. The short trails will be great for folks looking for their country park fix, but I think it’ll plant a seed of wanting more, because of where it is and how they’ve set it up. For us though, the possibilities for going further are actually kinda exciting. Rucksacks packed for next time.
I’ll tell you though, we never did find a chessie tree, I think it’s a trick question on the checklist so you can’t win the prize.
While this hot weather has brought joy to many, its allure rather passes us by and we’ve been hiding. We cheered when it rained for half an hour the other day.
Wee quick jaunts aren’t always enough and Holly wanted to go further north despite the heat. The weather looked to have it wrong again, no rain in sight, so off we went in a blaze of sunshine, ELO’s Discovery album loud on the stereo.
Apparently there is no parking available in Scotland this summer unless you know some secrets, so we used one of those and parked up around a mile from the main road right at the start of the track.
It was a little grey to the north but the blue skies everywhere else were dazzling, and the beasties were biting hard so we didn’t stand around for too long.
It was warm. I’m really not a fan of walking in summer, but once we were clear of the trees there was an occasional breeze to keep sanity in close proximity.
The tadpoles are getting a bit froggy, can’t be far way from them all bursting out of their disguises and croaking it up at the Lang Craigs back home. When the old mill pond is full of frogs you can here them from the edge of the woods and it looks like a soup pot on the boil when you get closer.
A few spots of rain were very welcome. No jackets needed, it just felt delightfully cool as it soaked in and dried off quickly. We were on the edge of the cloud, we were stuck with the sunshine.
“Here”. The girl had decided we were having lunch, right here and right now. I got the stove on, ran in a circle to lose some of the midges, unpacked the mugs, ran in a circle… Everything was ready, just had to wait for the water to boil.
Boof. The rain came down and we pulled out our waterproofs. They were fine for a bout ten seconds when the rained upped the pressure. It was hosing down, the coffee was being bounced back out of my mug, our trousers were instantly saturated and water was running down my legs. I dragged all the gear under a little overhang by the track, including the still-lit stove and then just had to strand there and take it, no shelter nearby at all. Holly stood and ate her pasta with her hood up “Dad, it’s a bit rainy”. Yes thanks for that. I could feel the rain hitting my feet through the mesh on the top of my shoes. Heavy man.
Then it was gone. The sun split the clouds again and we were back on the edge of the action in time for part 2 of lunch, the sugary stuff.
The gear was all manky, there was something in suspension in the rain, sand or dust or ash from somewhere far away, seen it many times over the years. So I stuffed more than packed and we decided to head up the glen, see what was there. We got 20 feet when the first flash went off ahead of us, without a word, we turned and walk back to the trail junction. Let’s get back to the truck, maybe the weather man got it right.
The thunder was loud, overhead loud and the flashes cast a shadow around our feet. It fitted our story very well, The Stone Giant (we’ll come back to this later), as every crack and rumble was a plot point and a took us a few feet nearer the truck.
Long time since I’ve been out in such an active storm and this definitely made up for it, jackets went back on as the sky unloaded on us again. No wind though, so our wide brimmed hats were perfect. The rain ran off our brims as we marched back, laughing at the ridiculousness of it all.
The tadpoles were now swimming in fresh water and a DofE group were hiding in a group shelter as we hurried by, now exposed to the open sky and soaked through but so close to the truck. The biggest flash and loudest crash was just as we crossed the bridge and ran for the doors laughing and screaming.
We weren’t high up at all, but it really felt like being in amongst it. The first day in weeks the weather forecast got it right meteorologically and geographically for where we were going that day. Just a few hours out though. You buggers.
The Cobbler looked menacing on the way back out, there was flash flooding in Arrochar and terrified drivers doing 15mph on the A82.
This was brilliant day, a day to remember too.
Holly won’t let me forget it anyway.
I just realised something today.
I have relatively recently come to properly appreciate the joys of Netflix. Been signed up for years but just saw it as a virtual video rental shop, pretty much ignoring the first selection you see, the “own brand” titles, as low budget nonsense populated by down on their luck actors.
The Good Place, Stranger Things, Star Trek Discovery and a few others have changed my mind as they’re among the best things I’ve ever seen on the telly and I can’t help but see Netflix in the same light as the “regular” channels at their money-no-object creative best.
But, the way we pay for it is taking the piss. We have the licence fee, I mean, it’s the only way to get Doctor Who live on a Saturday without constant threatening letters. Then we have our TV/phone (a landline exclusively for calls about PPI, new windows, solar panels and folk looking for my ex wife)/internet package and then the optional cost of subscription to PS+ or X-Box Live if you swing that way.
It’s like a pyramid scheme or something, Netflix is cheap enough, but christ, you really have to prop it up with other money to get to it. Even on my phone in a tent I’m paying a subscription to access my subscription.
Media folk are just laughing at us all. Give us a taste, get us hooked then bend us over. They’re all in it together.
Can’t wait until Stranger Things Season 3 though “throws money at the screen”.
Too tired last week, didn’t stray far from home. Luckily home is in a nice place.
The green is getting really green, the showers had the leaves bursting with colour and life. Things are flying around and biting me enthusiastically. Summer “yay”.
The beach is awesome. Creatures in rock pools, what seems as many ships passing as there was when I was wee. The river is very much alive.
All this is on my phone, I really need to carry my camera all the time.
We had tents pitched on the lawn, trying them out for size and a wander up the crags never got further than the Overtoun House tea room.
Holly was making sure we weren’t wasting this new day.
There was still time for tattie scones though. I mean, the Russian invaders would have to be visible from the windae before we let that go on a weekend.
We thought we’d try some new socks this time around. Holly got her fancy Wigwam anniversaries on and I found an old pair of Injinji’s that I was probably supposed to review in 1975. She was still laughing at my feet a mile up the road.
We took the Loch Long road, the A82 was choked once again.
Hmm, instant self edit. I just wrote a rant and deleted it. You know what, I actually don’t care what other folk do. We got in the truck to find fun and that lingering air of positivety has sapped my enthusiasm for tearing into Loch Lomond day trippers.
Instead, the most memorable part of the journey is always going to be ELO’s Shine a Little Love with us singing along and doing the clapping part in the chorus high-5 style as we went.
Don’t let the bastards grind you down? Sometimes.
It was a funny sort of a day. At Butterbridge it was was very warm, the sun was splashed on the hills but we were in a patch of gloom that seemed quite keen to follow us.
We got the occasional burst of unedited sunshine and thought about reaching for the sun cream, but then it would slip away once again.
Still warm though, hats were dipped in the burn, chilled Robinson’s lemon was sipped often.
The banter was exceptional and hanging out with Holly like this has reconnected me to the outdoors in subtle ways as well as sharing the “Wow, look at that” moments.
The pace is slower, there’s a lot of looking ahead and looking up. I’m explaining and pointing, recounting old tales from the trail and making up just as much as well.
Volume 2 of the Loch Sloy Trolls was sketched out on this walk. Oh the drama, the tension, the bloodshed. The claws…
I’m looking up and thinking, oh I’d like to go there, even when I’ve been there repeatedly. I’m looking and I’m thinking “Have I got time for this?” and I don’t mean hours of daylight, I mean miles left in my legs and useful years of life past the end of this one.
It’s odd feeling older but also feeling, I suppose, hungry? Am I finally feeling what it is to be 49?
Glen Kinglas isn’t overly glamourous I suppose, it’s a landrover track serving forestry, farming and the arse end on the Loch Sloy hydro scheme. It’s good going underfoot and the views are as awesome as they are unusual. Indeed, the views were also new to me.
As well traveled as I am around here I’ve never been beyond the Abyssinia hut on this track. I’ve walked down to here, climbed up the slopes above the hut and walked to the top of Beinn Choranach and I’ve walked the widely ignored ridge on the other side of the glen from Creag Bhrosgan to Stoban Dubha and down to the hut through the crags. Never beyond though, the next steps were actually kinda exciting.
Beinn an Lochain looks amazing from here, sharp and er, mountainous. Beinn Ime looks unfamiliar, the broken east ridge definitely looks a wee bit racey and Beinn Narnain is a dark, sheer sided ridgeline.
It’s like looking at your best friend from the back in a crowd when they’re wearing a hat they’ve just bought that day.
Met a couple from the Netherlands here, on their last full day before their flight home and looking for the most fun route back before a night at Ardgarten. We chatted, I talked too much and fired too much information at them as usual but they smiled as it hit them like a box of tangerines from the top deck of a multi storey carpark (suspiciously specific?).
Damn me though, as we looked back, they took the route up I suggested. I kept looking back as they wound their way uphill. The ridge cleared and stayed clear, it must have been eye watering up there. Fantastic.
The tail of Loch Sloy was annoyingly invisible. Grassy hillside and forest were the dual inconveniences. Lunch, it is was about 1800, so dinner really, was warm and tasty. Protracted too, we had music and everything. And pastries.
Energy renewed, focus regained, we’d go and find the loch. The map said this was unlikely without a lot of effort possibly mixed with re-ascent and some bog hopping. Ach, we’ll see.
The forest track seemed more fun, it was a better venue for a story as we walked. I mean, that’s a troll bridge if I ever there was.
The riverside was boggy and we stumbled and slopped along it before coming out onto the grass and the sunshine. Here a culvert come aqueduct thing meets the river. It’s very like the one that goes to Blackwater Dam from the top of the pipes, being roofed with concrete strips. It curves around to Gleann Uaine picking up the burns around there to feed them into Loch Sloy.
Never seen it mentioned and it was a complete surprise, not really on a hill approach I suppose. So much of the hydro scheme tendrils to stumble upon in these hills.
We stood on a grassy knoll and finally spied the loch. We looked at each other and knew that was enough, it was nearly 100m vertical descent to the waters edge which we’d have to reverse. Nah.
The water level is very low just now so it looks a bit nasty and bare down there anyway, we can reenact the moon landings another time.
The culvert was fun to follow back, the sound of invisible rushing water was an odd accompaniment, like having a broken radio on in the background all the time.
Holly was tired, I checked when I got back and she did 8 miles all in today. The three miles back were fueled by constant banter and Morrisons Marathon* rip-offs, Sprinters bars.
She did so well, at times it was a roaster before the breeze arrived and she put in the miles in good cheer. I am proud as The Dad, but more than that I am so pleased for The Girl. I can see how these wee adventures are affecting her thinking and her bearing.
We had cows staring at us in an alarming fashion, birdlife swooping and bobbing, lambs displaying unbearable cuteness and then pleasantly cold air that came with a darkening sky.
One lamb had the best face ever with a perfect black metal corpse paint look. It had a wee limp as well. I definitely wasn’t up late worrying about it.
Might go back and see it this week though, you know, just in case.
*Stick your Snickers re-designation Mr Mars